Peaks of the Balkans Trail

An early start takes you on a scenic drive through the Drin Gorges to Komani Lake. The fjord-like reservoir winds between steep rock walls, and the unusual ferry makes several stops for locals from remote villages before reaching Fierze. From here, you continue by car into Valbona National Park, stopping for a light lunch in Bajram Curri. By early afternoon, you arrive in the Valbona Valley with its stone tower houses. A warm-up walk follows a crystal-clear stream through beech forests, with options for a refreshing dip in the cold river or a quiet pond. The jagged peaks above hint at tomorrow’s hike. In the evening, enjoy a hearty dinner and a well-earned rest.

Distance: 7,5 km
Climb: 250 meters
Overnight: Valbona

You begin with a 50-minute drive to the remote village of Cerem, where the hike starts across flower-filled meadows toward the first border crossing. Along the way, enjoy forest fruits, colorful flora, and views of Mt. Kolata (2,534 m). Reaching the edge of the deep Gashi River Canyon, you follow a high route through conifer forest and notice the shift from the Western to the Eastern Alps. Mountain slopes open into small alpine pastures, including Balqin, where you can pause for coffee and raki. The day ends in the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1,750 m), where animals roam freely and life follows age-old rhythms. Here, simple shepherd huts offer warm hospitality. After a home-cooked dinner, you can sit by the bonfire, admire the stars, and learn about the seasonal life of the shepherds.

Distance: 16 km
Climb: 1100 meters
Overnight: Doberdol

After saying goodbye to your hosts, a steep ascent leads you out of the valley toward Mt. Trekufiri (2,366 m), whose peak marks the point where Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro meet. From here, you enjoy sweeping views of the borderlands. The blueberry-lined path continues into Montenegro, circling Mt. Bogicevica (2,374 m) and the hidden Lake Hrid — a tranquil pond reflecting the mountains and home to newts, salamanders, and fireflies. Set at 1,900 meters and surrounded by legends of youth and moonlit fairies, the lake offers an invigorating dip. The trail then descends through dense, moss-covered pine forest toward a cluster of seasonal huts known as a “Katun.” Further along the unpaved road, the wide settlement of Babino Polje comes into view, where you stay in simple but welcoming mountain huts and enjoy the highlights of traditional Montenegrin home cooking.

Distance: 13 km
Climb: 675 meters
Overnight: Babino Polje

The day begins with a morning transfer into the dramatic Grbaja Valley, a narrow corridor framed by the towering karst peaks of Karanfili (2,461 m), one of the most rugged summits in the Prokletije. A shaded ascent through a fairy-tale beech forest leads to an alpine meadow surrounded by sharp ridgelines. Following the connected ridge trail, you enjoy a succession of panoramic viewpoints, culminating at the peaks of Popadija and Taljanka (2,056 m), with expansive views across the border into Albania’s Kelmend region. From the ridge, a steep descent brings you back into the forest and down to the valley floor, where a cold drink in one of the beer gardens awaits. A transfer then takes you to your family-run guesthouse in Vusanje, where the veranda offers beautiful views of the Accursed Mountains. Nearby, the Grla Waterfall invites an evening stroll.

Distance: 12 km
Climb: 950 meters
Overnight: Vusanje

Leaving Vusanje, you walk up the glacier-shaped Ropojana Valley. At the pupil-shaped karst spring of Oko Skakavice, an ice-cold river emerges from melting snow high in the mountains. Passing Gjeshtare Lake, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once tightly sealed borders of former Communist Albania. After the forest, the views open into a mountain-framed corridor and a large alpine meadow dotted with shepherd shacks and an abandoned military post. Near the highest point of the route, you see a small lake below and the Peja Pass (1,711 m) across, named after a city in Kosovo. From here, a steep caravan path descends in serpentines into Theth, the valley at the heart of the Albanian Alps.

Distance: 15 km
Climb: 675 meters
Overnight: Theth

A stroll through Theth and its vibrant green fields reveals the village in all its charm. Explore the iconic church and the lock-in tower, where the history of the “Kanun” comes to life. This “kulla” once protected those involved in the Blood Feud and provides the perfect introduction to the former highland law code; it also marks the start of the trail to Nderlysaj. Following the water channels, the path climbs toward the Grunas Waterfall, then descends to a cliff overlooking the 50 m deep Grunas Canyon. From here, a well-trodden bridle path follows the river downstream to Nderlysaj. On arrival, the pond below and glacial mills above invite a refreshing swim in the midday heat. Around 1–2 pm, a scenic transfer takes you across the Thorja Pass (1,630 m) into the Valley of Boge and along Lake Shkodra (2 h). Vehicles are changed and luggage collected for the final 2.5-hour transfer to Tirana. In the capital, enjoy dinner and a drink in the stylish “Blloku” district, reflecting on a memorable week spent exploring the Albanian Alps.

Distance: 8 km
Climb: 150 meters
Overnight: Tirana

The last day in Tirana offers a chance to explore the city’s streets and landmarks. Pause for an espresso in a quaint café, watch the lively morning activity, and pick up edible souvenirs at the bustling “New Bazaar.” To learn about Albania’s communist history, visit “Bunkart 2” and “The House of Leaves,” both just a five-minute walk from Skanderbeg Square. Your Albanian adventure concludes with a 30-minute transfer to the airport.