Albanian Alps Hike

An early start takes you on a scenic drive through the Drin Gorges to Komani Lake. The fjord-like reservoir winds between steep rock walls, and the unusual ferry makes several stops for locals from remote villages before reaching Fierze. From here, you continue by car into Valbona National Park, stopping for a light lunch in Bajram Curri. By early afternoon, you arrive in the Valbona Valley with its stone tower houses. A warm-up walk follows a crystal-clear stream through beech forests, with options for a refreshing dip in the cold river or a quiet pond. The jagged peaks above hint at tomorrow’s hike. In the evening, enjoy a hearty dinner and a well-earned rest.

Distance: 7,5 km
Climb: 250 meters
Overnight: Valbona

After a short transfer to the trailhead, you begin your hike to Kukaj, a tiny hamlet inhabited by just two families. Bunkers that once guarded the border now lie scattered in the riverbed below. The trail winds over flower-filled meadows and through light beech forest to a shepherd’s hut at 1,650 m, once a military barrack. Enjoy the rugged mountain scenery, a refreshing soda, or an optional climb to an ancient border crossing at 2,045 m, marked only by a weathered pyramid and offering sweeping views of Montenegro’s Prokletije. After a final glimpse of Jezerca (2,694 m), descend via Kukaj to your accommodation. As daylight fades, enjoy dinner on the veranda with views of the alpine glow over the valley.

Distance: 9-12-17,5 km
Climb: 625-700-1125 meters
Overnight: Valbona

Today brings another highlight of the Albanian Alps. After a short ride over the rough riverbed, you meet the mule porter who carries the main luggage and begin the hike across Valbona Pass (1,811 m). Above the village of Rragam, several steep sections await, with chances to pause at springs and meadows to catch your breath and enjoy the herb-scented mountain air. Upon reaching the pass, the surrounding peaks feel almost level with you, and sweeping views of both national parks open up. After a lunch break overlooking the landscape, start the descent to Theth, where a fairy-tale beech forest offers shade from the afternoon sun. Near the village, the trees thin out, Mt. Arapi (2,217 m) rises into view, and you soon reach the upper houses of Gjelaj. From here, a broad path leads through the hamlets of the valley to your guesthouse.

Distance: 11 km
Climb: 800 meters
Overnight: Theth

Today you can choose between two hikes: the route to Peja Pass at the northern end of the valley, below the “Matterhorn of Albania,” or the panoramic trail to the high Meadows of Denelli. Both are return hikes, and you stay a second night at the same guesthouse. The Peja Pass route is sun-exposed, so an early start is recommended. The trailhead is a 4 km drive or about an hour’s walk away. The trail begins at the source of the Thethi River and climbs the seemingly impenetrable wall above it. The ancient caravan path, hidden in the sheer 900 m drop below Mt. Arapi (2,217 m), is named after the Kosovo city of Peja, where the route once connected. The Denelli hike starts at the iconic Theth church, passes through the green Ulaj neighbourhood, and ascends—after a river crossing—through light forest to a cliffside path and then up to a large high meadow surrounded by mountains.

Distance: 7,5-9,5 km
Climb: 650-950-1000 meters
Overnight: Theth

Today’s walk through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of Theth. You visit the iconic church and the nearby lock-in tower, where you can learn about the “Kanun,” its origins, and its role in protecting those affected by the Blood Feud.

Continuing along the water channels, the path ascends to the Grunas waterfall and then drops to a cliff above the river, where archaeologists discovered Stone Age terraces. After gazing into the 50 m deep Grunas Canyon, you begin the second part of the hike on a well-worn bridle path that follows the river downstream to Nderlysa, where a light lunch awaits in the hosts’ garden.

Tonight’s accommodation is a simpler but welcoming guesthouse in a quiet hamlet. In your free time, you can sample mulberries, grapes, and plums in the garden, ask your host about beekeeping, or swim in the nearby glacier-carved stone pools. If this walk feels too short, you may opt to do yesterday’s alternative hike before transferring to Nderlysa in the afternoon.

Distance: 8 km
Climb: 150 meters
Overnight: Nderlysa

Today’s walk follows the canyon upstream to the karst spring known as the “Blue Eye.” Those willing to brave the icy water can enjoy a refreshing dip in this butterfly-filled natural pool — a quiet little oasis. If you want to walk a bit more, you can continue on to the nearby abandoned hamlet of Kapreja.

Around 1–2 pm, a transfer from the guesthouse takes you over the scenic Thorja Pass, down into the Boge Valley, and along the shores of Lake Shkodra (2 h). In Shkodra, you switch vehicles for a further 2.5-hour transfer to your centrally located hotel in Tirana. The capital offers a glimpse of a very different, modern Albania. End the day with dinner and a drink in the stylish Blloku district as you look back on your journey through the Albanian Alps.

Distance: 6,5 km
Climb: 275 meters
Overnight: Tirana

If time allows, take a stroll through Tirana’s lively streets. Enjoy an espresso in a cozy café, explore the vibrant “New Bazaar,” or visit “Bunk’Art 2” and “The House of Leaves” to learn about Albania’s communist past. Your journey concludes with a short transfer to the airport — farewell from the land of warm hospitality, majestic mountains, and sunlit beaches.